Falling into Flight

Parked at the free camping ground at the start of the Rubicon Trail, in North Lake, Tahoe CA. The back of this ZipCar Jeep Compass Mojave is full of its second load of Samples; Gregory Bags & Packs, MSR tents and ThermaRest Pads- and I'm just way too tired to set-up one of these HubbaHubbas to get some needed rest and dreams.

Half-awake, I fashion a clumsy bed of sleeping bags and stuffed duffles, elevated to above the height of the steering wheel because its the only way to get a best-case-scenario even-ish platform.

And it's cozy too.

I wake several times from some one's car horn honking in the dead of night/morning only to realize that my own leg was to blame.

I slept so well.

This morning I woke up thinking about flying through the atmosphere, more like falling, really.  At an incredible velocity yet almost still -like that reoccurring dream I have where I fall from the sky to my death below, but only this time I was flying.  I leapt from a high mountain cliff gaze set on a distant expanse of water towards the setting sun.

My arms and body felt like wings.

Good Ol' American Coffee

From american coffee

Good Ol' American Coffee.


Brewed, Sugar with a healthy serving of Half&Half.


Such a concoction simply cannot be found outside of the tourist cafes in Europe. I wouldn't say that I necessarily missed it, but I was certainly delighted to taste its sweet and creamy goodness once more.

From american coffee

It was a minor objective of mine to sample the variety of coffee each country had to offer. The challenge was met with both diversity and satisfaction.


In Paris France they serve serve Cafe Creme instead of Lattes and are very much different. The milk is -consistent between the actual cafes visited- steamed neither flat or fluffy...sort of like sloppy cappuccino froth. The cappuccinos are more like Italian machiatos.

From Budapest_Bakery and Eszpresso Bar


Budapest, Hungary -Fortune lead me to the most lovely bakery hidden within the neighborhoods and away from tourist traffic. There I was served eszpresso along with various impressive treats. When asked if I wanted any cream I was shown a container of heavily whipped cream and quickly agreed. After adding one packet of sugar I eagerly took a sip and was immediately sent into a fit of satisfaction.



Anyone that goes to Budapest would add significant color to their trip by visiting this intimate little bakery.


Rome Italy -I ordered espresso, machiatos, cappuccinos. Everyone consistently tasted like the best here in the States. One bar however located away from the beaten path, fulfilled my desires to discover if the mythological espresso archetype was really more than a myth. The crema was sweet and thick and was persistent until the last drop, quickly covering the extraction with every gentle swirl of the cup. The bite of the espresso was neither intense of subtle, it was simply balanced. From that moment on I wondered no longer what is possible.


Lisbon Portugal -Bars. You go to bars and order a caffe and are served a shot of espresso...with a touch of milk if you wish. And there you will stand, at the bar, sipping your shot of espresso shoulder to shoulder with you fellow drinkers...some drinking spirits for their morning boost. There were western cafes available in the main parts of town that catered to tourists where one might have a Cappuccino of Latte, but if you want Lisboa's culture, do what you can to find a local bar and have yourself drink.


No matter the representation, coffee is clearly a major part of every culture I passed through during my short tour of Europe. Into Italy coffee spread from the Muslim world back in the late 1500s and the first Italian Coffee House opened in 1645. Perhaps Portugal's expression of coffee can be explained by their significant exposure to Arabic culture.


Brazil produces the most green coffee in the world, followed by Vietnam and Colombia. Indonesia and Ethiopia follow in the line up according to Wikipedi.


Back in the States, sitting at the local Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf in my families town in Southern California, I realized I had never qualified American coffee as its own variety and further excluded it from ever doing so. I had fallen into the classic trap of comparison to what something should or could possibly be. Now after having drunk so many varieties of the same thing, I understand that we Americans are no different. It is an adapted taste designed by the needs of our culture here. This is not unlike American Whiskey, New York Pizza, San Fransisco Chinese Food, Japanese Spaghetti, and a European Hamburger.


I find it amazing that I had to immerse myself into other Cultures to discover American Culture.

Table of Contents, Winter Moto Tour 2008 (aka MWD)

Approaching the end of November 2008, I set out on what was destined to be a 2,000+ mile loaded journey from the mountains of Arizona to the coast city of San Diego in southern California. Originally planned as approximately a 5,000 mile endeavor that would have included both asphalt and dirt, the trip was cut short when the need to return home early came in a phone call.

The route would go through the Grand Canyon NP, north past the historic Cameron Trading Post in the Navajo Nation and into the painted desert where a mistake in under estimation provided me the opportunity to push my motorcyle four miles to Page AZ after running out of fuel. From there I headed into Zion Utah and came tounderstand how it got its name. South into Nevada by night passing by the infamous Area51 on the creapy Extraterrestreal Highway. Escape the seductive sands of Death Valley and stay in the boiling hotsprings of the Old Highway 395, preparing me for the onslaught of a snow blizzard that blew on the last open pass of the Sierra Nevadas.
After surviving the previous day's excitement I find sanctuary in San Francisco's China Town and eventually head down the historic and amazing Coast Highway 1, all the way to San Diego.

Table of Contents,

Day 0_ Still Here

A Water Poem_Day 3

Zion Part One_Day 4

Seduction: Death Valley_Day 6

Made it Over the Snowy Passes_ Day 7

San Francisco_Day 8

China Town, Golden Gate Bridge & Big Sur_Day 9

Point Montana_Day 16

My Early Return & MWD ends

Day 1 and Day 6 San Francisco_Photo Dump

From Norcal 2009

From Norcal 2009

From Norcal 2009

From Norcal 2009

From Norcal 2009

From Norcal 2009

From Norcal 2009

From Norcal 2009

From Norcal 2009

From Norcal 2009

From Norcal 2009

Karakoram Highway_Resource Page

aka:
KKH
Friendship Highway
National Highway 35 (N35) of Pakistan

Completed in 1986 after 20 years of construction under grueling conditions, between the countries of China and Pakistan, the Karakoram Highway is the highest International Road at 4,693m/15,397ft. Ranging from Kashgar China to Islamabad Pakistan, the KKH connects China's Xinjiang region to Northern Pakistan, via a 1,300km road of varying conditions over the Karakoram Mountain Range. It traces much of the same path of the famous Silk Road and will offer exposure to many diverse cultures and subcultures of the area.

Adventurers travel the KKH by bicycle, moto and overland vehicle; each offers its advantages and disadvantages.
Being on a fat-tire bicycle will provide immediate exposure to the dangerous elements, but the fat-tires will excel on the snow and ice, will be more manageable than a heavy moto, and more convenient at times than a whole truck (won't need petrol for one).

Dangers:

Landslide -McMillan and Tunik

Disrepair- There seems to be a consistent report of the road being in constant repair through out the year due to landslides and general road collapse from erosion. Traveling on bike may have the greatest advantage here, having the ability to walk over/past what cannot be driven.


Khunjerab Pass -McMillan and Tunik

Harsh Climate- No matter what season the road is tackled in, harsh cold-weather environment will be unavoidable. Other sections will be entirely exposed to the sun and sheer cliff drop offs. It is said the best time to travel is in the Spring and early Autumn, avoiding the Monsoons of July and August. At the highest elevations, the road is made of ice and snow.

Bandits- At this time there are no significant reports from past and recent travelers.

Military Significance- The KKH travels few hundred kilometers along the Pakistani side of the Collision Zone, where China, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, and Pakistan border each other. KKH also runs through disputed Kashmir, where India has claimed it has been illegally built on sections of their national territory.


Friendly Pakistani Border Police- McMillan and Tunik


Border Closure- The border from China into Pakistan at Khumjerab Pass is open from May1st to December 1st every year. Also, many travellers have reported difficulty getting harassed at the Chinese side of the border by irate and overly controlling border guards. Sounds like drama will be unavoidable.




The KKH represents a myriad of meaning and opportunities for this Project. The Cultural exposure alone sends my mind and heart to sore. In Pakistan, there are industrial sized work trucks ornately decorated with symbols and colors that express the passion and dreams of each driver. The element of mental and physical adversity sends chills of determination down my spine each time I imagine the epic over snow and iced roads in severe winter conditions.



XinJiang Provence China -McMillan and Tunik


The XinJiang region holds many -very little known- cultures of China that continue to remain hidden to the rest of the world. I've heard of rumors of stringent control of travellers through China ranging from mandatory guide patronage to constant monitoring by the government.
Travelling along the KKH will undoubtedly present challenges that can shape an individual.



Valley of Hunza, Rakaposhi towers in background -Corax

The Karakoram Highway will hold a significant place of importance in my six years of exploring Asia.



LINKS:
The Best map of the KKH I've found so far - JohntheMap.co.uk Surveyor

Karakoram Highway Pictures -Asif Raza, A Traveler's Blog

Cycling the KKH- Great Picture Source by Canadian Dan Higgins

Scewed on the KKH -A Cylclist's Account

Corax...Around the World by Bicycle -Adventurer Extrordinare 1994 Cycling Trip of the KKH as a Novice Cyclist

Pakistan KKH part one -David McMillan and Erika Tunik...Possibly the best trip reports currently on the Web.

China, XinJiang Provence -David McMillan and Erika Tunik

Official website of the Chinese Embassy to the USA

Embassy of the USA_Islamabad Pakistan

Travelling by Cargo Ship & Prep' for Froggie's Thesis Defense After Party

Saw this off of Wend Blog.

The video is cute.
As far as the travelling accomodations, $80-140 per day is on the steep side for the Budget Traveller. I suppose it could be fun.

Tomorrow is Sahr's Masters Thesis Defense and I will be throwing her an afterparty at Camp.

It will be BOYB and BOYC (bring yo' own chair...).
There will be turkey burgers, vegi burgers, bad-for-you hotdog burgers, grilled bread, vegi dutch oven chili, chicken kabobs and a cozy fire place to cook it all in!

Even gots a limited supply of the necessary elements to make smores.

Back in Flagstaff AZ and Ready to Ride! ALSO: First update on Suspension Upgrade

I From Hobo Camping

I am officially back in Flagstaff AZ and done with major bouncing around and traveling for a few months. Time to get caught up with Blogging and get a DS Rally put together!
Dave Z. and I rode the second section of the course this past weekend. We only hit a few of the caches as the main objective was to evaluate that section of the course. The Cinder Pit pictured here is classic of northern AZ terrain. It rides like deep sand but thrashes tires like sharp rock!

From Hobo Camping

We will ride the first section of the course this weekend. If Dave cannot ride on Saturday, I may be volunteering at the AZ State Championship mountain bike race happening on Mt Elden, one of our local mountains, as a mobile course marshal/WFR since I gotz the moto.

Either way, I have some great riding ahead of me in the next few days.

From Arrival_Suspension

And now a quick shot to the very recent past...
I received the Cogent Dynamics Moab shock and fully rebuilt front forks. Rick at MotoCD.com was absolutely fantastic and a treat to deal with. The suspension is more than noticeably different! I actually got to test it out on a long ride into the mountains of San Jacinto in Southern California. The new suspension -along with the knee braces I wore for the first time- saved me from what should have been a low side on a slow speed turn when my front tire flatted! More on that exciting story on a soon to come post...it deserves its own!
The craftsmanship is simply impeccable, it is very light weight in hand even without comparing it to stock, and is pretty freakin' sexy (if you're a bike-sexual).
Their prices are among the top best currently available.

From Arrival_Suspension

I asked Rick at Cogent Dynamics to tune the suspension for hard off road riding ranging from fast loose fire-roads to slow technical rock gardens. Also ordered two coils. One is set for my 135lb body weight plus 35lbs of cargo gear and the second for riding with 200lbs of cargo gear -for upcoming moto adventures of course.

From Arrival_Suspension

When the units arrived via FedEx I inspected the boxes immediately. Much to my alarm I discovered the stock presta valves of one of the fork legs had punched through what I presume to be the bottom end as it stacked in the truck. The valve was damaged and a fairly small amount of oil soak could be seen. It seemed to me the box containing my fork legs had been placed vertical, upside-down.
I called Rick and described the scenario. Ultimately we decided that the "damaged" fork leg may not have been compromised judging by the small amount of oil soak I described. The only way to know for certain if too much oil had leaked out was to literally open it up or by riding the bike and experiencing any negative perceived performance. I opted for choice number two and did not notice anything obscene. Actually, I only noticed impressive suspension oscillation on road and off.
What a relief.
The damaged presta valve is not a concern since they do not have an imperative function anymore with the new internals (other than holding oil in). The rebuild included progressively wound springs, RaceTech cartridge emulators, new seals, bushings and oil.


The cartridge emulators control the low and high speed damping oscillation of the front suspension. My only reference to any of this comes from my long time quest to use mountain bike suspension during my pursuit of racing. Grant it, bicycle suspension internals are different from that of motos, but they do get much of their technology from the motorcycle industry and suspension dynamics is still suspension dynamics no matter what machine it is used on.
Here is a great link describing the differences between emulators and other kinds of motorcycle front suspension : FJ Mod site -Yamaha YZFJ1200, a reproduced explanation of Suspension by Jeff Hoffman
The installation of the forks and fork brace as well as the Cogent Dynamic Moab Shock was very simple on the KLR and should be no problem for the home mechanic with the right tools in hand. Originally I had intended on doing an How-to installation post but realized it has already been done very well elsewhere and was way too straight forward anyway.
Take this link [Cogent Dynamics Moab Shock and Spring Review]to a very well done and thorough product and performance review of the Cogent Dynamics Moab Shock and fork springs, on KLRWorld.com . The author, Hondo, did the fork spring installation himself and without the RaceTech cartridge emulators, whereas my forks were sent to Cogent Dynamics for a full rebuild and upgrade.

Now back in Flagstaff, I am able to put them on a full test run to develop an opinion on their intended performance prowess through a wide array of terrain. Today and the rest of the weekend I will do a full run of the CGDSR course and will report back with my thoughts.
Cheers
Contact Information for
Cogent Dynamics, Inc

Rick Tannenbaum
33 Meadow Brook
DriveFletcher, NC, USA
28732
Phone: 828-628-9025
MotoCD.com

Project Announcement: Exploring Asia on a Loaded Mountainbike 2013

Some years ago I developed a desire to participate in the Iditarod Trail Invitational (Iditabike), an infamously gruelling winter event that follows nearly the same 1,100 mile course of the also infamous Iditrod Sled Race , along the Historic Iditarod Trail in Alaska. Many other ridiculous adventures came and went in my mind since that time, but the Iditabike remained on a personal pedestal of grandeur. Then I watched a documentary by the name of Long Way 'Round, by Ewan McGregor and Charlie Boorman. The two well known actors and their camera man Claudio, set out on matching BMW GS1150 motorcycles, to ride from London to Magadan in Siberia Russia, ultimately ending in New York, USA. They were trailed by a support crew that would help produce a television show in route and provide aid in case of disaster and to help assure the success of the business side of the venture.

Inspired,
I started to fantasize more
and wondered if I could do that.

Too much money would be needed to ride my own moto through a similar route across Asia and Europe, so I just about let that concept go.

However, as my curiosity was fed more and more by this new interest, I began to find blog after blog of other people from all over the world who have either done an intercontinental tour by moto or by pedalling a bicycle.

Of course!! By bicycle! Why not?

I thought of the guys of Riding the Spine and how they have been traveling for several years trying to get from Alaska to Ushaia in South America on Xtracycle-equipped mountain bikes. My imagination ran wild and I shelved this cracked-pot idea on the same plane as the Iditabike. The route that began to formulate in my head would take me through Siberia, Mongolia and then southbound through the former Soviet Block countries of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. I would pass over the icy roads of the Karakoram Highway in northern Pakistan and into India where I saw myself spending a significant amount of time riding from one holy site to the next. After Nepal, the tour drew me into Southeast Asia and down into Singapore,ultimately eastbound ending somewhere in Papua New Guinea.

Oh, to dream.

Time moved on and more immediate and firmer adventures required my undivided attention.
This particular dream would have to remain as merely a possibility for the future, right alongside the Iditabike Trail Invitational.

After recently returning from an amazing four weeks in Europe, traveling by train, bus, or plane, I decided that the next time I visit this area of the world I would not do it without a bicycle. Then it suddenly occurred to me: I would be taking a long bicycle tour the next time such an opportunity comes, only it wouldn't be through Europe.
And so I resolved after that moment of clarity, that in the year 2013, I would take a loaded Xtracycle-equipped mountain bike to Magadan, Russia and begin a pedal stroke that would last at least two years in length.

I reassessed my immediate goals and far off dreams with this now numero uno project in mind. The coveted Iditabike would have to wait and from now until that day, I have to prepare.

Exploring Bairro Alto, Lisboa Portugal

From Lisboa_Barro ALto_The Streets of

Bank Account Unfrozen

A long story finally solved...and to be told soon.

I am hopeful the worse is over.
Now that was an adventure! Imagine being in a foriegn country, unable to connect with your Contact, all your assets are suddenly unavailable, your supposed International Phone Card isnt accepted by the local phones, and you have only 5 €uros in your pocket! AND! you are on a time crunch because your flight home leaves two countries away!

Luck had it that a last desperate attempt to withdraw only 20€uros was somehow successful which is what got me a compatible Phone Card.

Full story when I get back to the States.
Now I wait for my Contact here in Lisboa Portugal for a little bit of a tempo change.
I actually am craving a beer---and thats saying something.

Bank Issues and I´m Out of €uros!

Holy SHIIsh-kabobs Batman!

Bank of America has frozen accessto my money because of "suspicious activity"and won´t free it until I call them.

Time to put the ol´ problem solving skills to action.

gotta go, there is sooo much to write!

PS:I broke my camera some how, so I have no pics of Roma.

Arrived in Budapest Hungary

From Budapest_1st Day_Arriving

I arrived in Hungary this morning around 0930H to an empty cabin and train. The inspectors were already checking the cabins. I stepped onto the station platform and was simple dazzled- I had somehow fallen into the scene of a hollywood movie.


First impressions:
Budapest seems much poorer than Warsaw, but the city is gorgeous and the people are absolutely excited about Americans. There are even less folks that speak English or even Duetch than I've encountered elsewhere in Europe. However, we have made due with lots of laughs and smiles. At the writing of this post, I have already explored a bit and I must say:

Hungarians are fantastic!



I'm off to continue my adventure!

Drinking Polish Vodka 'til the Break of Dawn

So last post I said I would have a chance to update because of great WIFI and bla bla bla...

From Warsaw Poland_Wodka and Herring

Well, that doesn't add up to much when you befriend a close group of people in some country, let's say Poland, who now want to get you drunk on Vodka.

From Warsaw Poland_Wodka and Herring

Image above: The guy in this photo was another guest and was following the women where ever they went proclaiming his state of availibility. He kept asking me why I didn't speak Polish and that I must be crazy--because the women are the most beautiful in the world...he was a beyond drunk.

What an evening. It was fantastic.
After 4 hours of sleep and a shower I braved the idea of packing and figuring out the rest of the day before my train to Budapest, Hungary tonight at 2100H.

Okay...so I am off to a Milche Bar and will return to try the update again (no, I mean it, really ;^)

Arrived_ Warsaw freakin' Poland!!

Yes! I am in Warsaw Poland, girls and boys!!

With excellent WIFI service in Hostel Helvetia, recommended by my new Polish friend Agata (Who should be in Milan Italy by now and is absolutely crazy about Rome!)
I should be able to work late with updates of the visit in Norway and tonight's adventures here.

From Visiting Historic Warsaw

Last night I also got to meet and have a beer with the owner of the Hostel, who has ridden his bicycle all over the world- from South America to the Himalayas of India!

Check out the website on the adventures here.
You may need to translate it from Polish of course, but at the least enjoy the photography of this talented artist.

More later...

Slicing My Right Thumb

From Temp

Well it wasn't intentional. Two days before when I got a little sloshy from one too many drinks, along with dropping my camera on its lens inside my eggplant stew, I dropped one of Polliwog's ceramic mugs on its side and broke the handle off. No big deal except we decided to keep it. The next day while washing dishes, I began to vigorously scrub the outside of said mug which lead to a very deep laceration of my right thumb- thankfully only the proximal part of the digit. A very shallow laceration could be faintly seen continuing frighteningly close to the palm.
What a disaster that would have been!
(By the way, the blur in the photo is actually the oily delicious residue of Persian Eggplant stew. The photos had to make the sacrifice..And now it is clear that their sacrifice is ours as well- I feel so united).

After successfully controlling the bleeding and Polliwoggy nearly passing out, we put on our jackets and shoes to pick up some medical supplies. First we checked Kiwi, a small grocery store on the dormatory property. A young clerk told us that not only did they not have any medical supplies but that every store in town with supplies would be closed. It was 1830 hours at that point. As Polliwog began a determined mission to find bandaids and iodide (to my request) I tried to convince her that I could get by with something that was sterile...such as a piece from a feminine sanitary napkin. She definitely was not having any of that. It would have worked, but she was not convinced yet about the stores being closed.

We jumped on the metro headed for what she called Down Town Oslo. After a 15 minute ride, we exit our train and I follow her through the maze of hallways. Soon we emerged into what was an enormous shopping mall. It trips me out when the subways lead into these large shopping centers. This happened elsewhere in Europe and I always felt like I was still in the subterranean portion of the metro. We take two stories up and find a medical supply shop not only very open but also very busy!

Bandaids were easy and so was 10 meters of bandage cloth tape. The shop didn't have regular gauze, which we both thought very strange. After double checking with the clerk, I selected the box of bandaids for 35Kroner. I picked up a 10mL vial of Iodine solution for sterilizing the water to wash up the finger. There was a bit of language confusion with the lady who helped us earlier. For 73Kroner (approx. $10 USD) I wanted to be sure this was in fact a vile of iodine. A nice Chinese exchange student at the register answered our query to our confidence and we spent a total of 148Kroner (around $21 USD).




Once back to the dorm room, I went into the bathroom and filled a ziplock baggy with water. After putting some drops of iodine in the bag and shaking well, I cut a minuscule piece from the tip of one of the corners and used the bag as syringe to force clean the wound.
Being very fresh it opened up nicely and the blood began to flow. I entertained this for nearly the entire wash, but decided to spray a little faster since the blood was free flowing. The excitement now over, we went on to the more exciting things of watching her favorite TV shows via internet. The time used to deal with this essentially canceled our planned night out. We had hoped to go to the Opera Bar, where people apparently go to drink beer while listening to er...opera?? We'll try again on Tuesday. I gotta see this, I thought.

It was an incredibly silly injury. The laceration is sooooo deep, I am sure I could see the bone. I'll just have to keep it clean and keep it bound. Finger wounds as deep as this take a long while to heal.

Deciding on Where to Go...Warsaw & Budapest

From Temp

After some researching on the ol' net, I have decided to go with Warsaw, Poland and Budapest, Hungary for starters.
Now I will have to begin to search the Couchsurfing.org database for someone to host me, otherwise it will be another lonely night in a Hostel.

I will either take a flight from Oslo Airport or a ferry from Copenhagen, Denmark or from Stockholm, Sweden.
I suppose I'll take whichever is less expensive, unless of course it's a terribly long transport.

Any tips and recommendations are very welcome.

Urban Backpacking in Europe_Where to Next?

I am having trouble deciding where I should go to next.

From Temp

I don't have the time or resources to visit every western country. In addition, I would like to see cultures and places that are significantly different or have deep historical value, such as Rome and/or Greece. I want to make this last week count! I don't feel like sight seeing- Iwant to discover what is outside of my own personal experience...perhaps I won't get that in Western Europe, by the means I am traveling. In the end, I'm just another tourist.

If it were possible- and I'd prefer it- I would like to meet with people from any country, in any place, if it meant we could talk about the things we care about in the world, about the world's growth from its current condition.

Here are the countries I am considering so far:
Slovakia
Hungary- I would like to find a Churchwarden reading pipe while there
Rome, Italy

That's it. That's all I've got.
I will search about the CouchSurfing.org website to see if I can hook up with some interesting folks throughout Europe and perhaps base the rest of my trip off of that.

A Wednesday in Oslo Norway- Persian Dining and Nespresso Cafe

From Norway Dave Persian stew

A preview picture of the Persian Eggplant Stew I enjoyed for dinner, over wine and various other alcoholic drinks. My buddy here insisted she get me drunk and I accepted. It was an evening of fun.

But first in other news...

I drink a Latte in Norway.

From Norway Dave Persian stew

It was traditional Italian style.
The milk was both flat and sweet.
The double shots of espresso blend smooth with the savory froth.
This satisfying drink was had at a bar within the campus of The University of Oslo.
It was the best I've had in Europe so far in this trip .

This Friday is the Iranian New Year and Polliwog needed some things to bring to her local family's celebration. So we shortly after jumped on the metro and headed to Grønland once again, where one can have nearly most ingredients from the mideast to southeast Asia. At the main transition hall of Central Station a young woman was handing out small sample packages to any passer-bys that would take them.

What were they?

From Norway Dave Persian stew

Why, they were Nescafe Espresso Cappuccino drinks...and! complete with a stainless steel spoon! Honestly, we were both mostly interested in the spoon.
We located our proper connector train and took the ramp that leads to the outside tracks.

What's this?

From Norway Dave Persian stew

Why, it's a Nescafe advertisement for..what?? An Espresso Cappuccinno drink? How strange! Look! That is nearly an identical spoon to the one we got. WOW!
So we have only a few minutes to wait for our metro. While the Polliwog talks away on her phone I notice how lovely the Norwegian sky is this day. She accused me of bringing the sun with me to Oslo, because it had been nearly gray skies every day for the last couple of months. There are many trees here and most are bare of leaves. The only large mass within their branches are nests. Big nests and small nests. I pan around with my head still aimed high and notice something else.

Something else? you ask...

From Norway Dave Persian stew

Oh my! It's the Nescafe headquarters.
All in the same proximity- isn't that cute?!
I'll have to see how this stuff is and report.
I really have become a coffee snob. Espresso in a bag is typically never worth drinking, usually not even better than "a poke in the eye".

After retrieving the needed whole-fig jam and lima beans in Grønland, we began a search for some sort of mini tripod for my camera. Preferably a Gorillapod, I was open to alternatives of course, being in a foriegn country. After striking out at the first store we found one at a large Norwegian Chain that had very reasonable prices as well. Standing in line however was a chore. It seems the two cashiers were more inclined to talk with each other and physically ponder the essence of what it might be like to move at the speed of molasses, than shorten their line of paying customers. Anyway, having lots of time on our hands, we began sorting through the video bargain bin standing nearby.

Did this already get released in the U.S.?

From Norway Dave Persian stew

I guess a lot of the movies here have double features like this X-Men flick accompanied by Sunshine(?).

Oh Look, Honey! It's Nescaffe Cappuccininno again!

From Norway Dave Persian stew

There it is, my Gorrillapod. I've been accused of "just loving these kinds of things"...it's true! So what?!!

From Norway Dave Persian stew

She programmed it to attack me anyway!

From Norway Dave Persian stew

Back in the safety of the Dorm and the Gorrillapod confined within its package again, we soon enjoy a simple salad of lettuce and very mild radishes with lemon and olive oil, topped with pepper and salt.

From Norway Dave Persian stew

And now for the grand finale!

I give you: Persian Eggplant Stew

From Norway Dave Persian stew

From Norway Dave Persian stew

From Norway Dave Persian stew

The beef is tenderized minimally by hand with grated yellow onions, pepper, salt and tumeric powder. Tomato paste is added to the mix at the very end and are shaped into little one inch patties.
Placing these little morsels in a pan of hot olive oil immediately produces sharp crackling sounds that cause me to jump and incredible aromatic smells that force my eyes to roll into the back of my head ( I think they are still there).
The eggplant, cut lengthwise, with a simple seasoning of salt and pepper, are draped on top of the bite size flats and a final tomato paste of sliced oninions and other herbs are topped on.
Served with saffron flavored basmati rice, Tadik potatoes, and more alcoholic concoctions.




Delicious.
My hats off to the chef!